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Smarter dining

Louro

The lobster rice is popular

Yes, Las Ramblas can be tourist hell. But not everything here is yellow paella and sangria in mugs.

There are no touts on the street tempting you up the stairs to Louro in the Centro Galego, which is the first good sign. The specialty here is Galician fare, in case the locale wasn’t enough of a hint.

The kitchen turns out some dishes of varying sophistication and success. Our last meal included some perfect padron peppers, gratinated scallops that were a little overpowered by the topping, plain steamed mussels that were clearly fresh but would have benefitted from some sauce, and some utterly spectacular smoked anchovies on toast. 

After several previous visits we finally relented and had lobster rice for a main. It seems this dish goes to just about every table in the restaurant, but there’s a reason for that – it is very, very good, and good value too by Barcelona standards at €24 per person (min 2 pers). 

Our waiter was friendly and knowledgeable, and suggested a perfect wine for the occasion as well.

While there’s almost nothing to recommend in Las Ramblas from a dining perspective, Louro stands out by a country mile. We’ll definitely be back.

Tel: 937 308 280

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Casual/tapas

Enoiteca Zona d’Ombra

A charming little wine bar in the equally charming El Coll, Enoiteca Zona d’Ombra offers some seating in the square in front for those warmer nights, as well as another 30 or so seats indoors.

The name gives the game away here – the specialty is wine, and there are eight whites, 12 reds, two rosés and two cavas available by the glass, as well as a few on the specials board.

Wines hail from Catalunya and other regions around Spain. Those 12 reds are each from different regions, so it is a terrific way to tour the amazing world of Spanish wine without leaving town.

As it’s Barcelona, there is a range of snacks available too.

Tel: 935 005 802

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Casual/tapas

Kiosk Universal


There are around 11 bars in La Boqueria, and we’re not brave enough to go out on a limb to say this is the best.

Still, the fresh seafood on offer seems to attract as many locals as tourists, and it is pretty darned good. (See the Boqueria website below to locate it in the market).

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